The splendors of Khajuraho and Orcha

6 and 7 November 2010 Khajuraho and Orcha, Saturday and Sunday

Our Friday visit to the temple, getting blessed by the priest and given Prasad was the real thing – of present-day Khajuraho.  Saturday, then, was the real thing of Khajuraho past – the Chandelas and their architecture.  Then on to Orcha on our bus for 5 hours – and the real thing of Orcha past – the Bundelas and their architecture. And of course our group, the 10 of us.

Off after breakfast to the main temple site – and our guide who was both very knowledgeable and patient.  He gave us a full background on the Chandela rulers, their ideas of Hindu architecture, the levels of grounded in earth, common human beings, the erotic between earth and the gods, sometimes striving to bliss, sometimes grounded in lust.  He showed us all sorts of panels, what they depicted and meant – humorous some, soldiers young unafraid as they marched to war, older men anxious, or fearful, or even turning back and away from war.  The 5 stages of the lower to upper spire and inner sanctuary.  Women in various poses. And on.  And then he let us loose after about 1.5 hours to look at the similar other temples, not as intact as the first, but with similar styles, depictions and meanings.  All very impressive, huge buildings, put together without mortar or glue of any kind.

Then we were off to the smaller number of Western temples, Hindu temples which had been taken over and reconfigured somewhat for Jain purposes and Jain temples.  A nice long explanation of the rise of Jainism and its great popularity, and even continuing today in Gujarat, home of Gandhi and his Jain mother, and Karnataka, home of the Outsources, The wealthy Jains of Indian, harming no living creature and involved with money and investments, etc. Our guide showed us more unique sculptures, of the three body curved pose, and the woman putting on mascara – just the thing for Jeanie. We sat outside one of the temples as others of our group took off both shoes and socks (harm no living thing) and went in for a few minutes. And we saw the 5 colored Jain flag. 

Back to our hotel Ramada for lunch, Robert and I sharing a pulau, dal, rice, and naan. Others were trying Western meat dishes.  A rest period – I rested for a few minutes – but went to sleep, mainly from about 3 to 4:30 pm when the cleaning crew knocked on the door and I grabbed my stuff and left.

The Ramada was a very nice modern place – huge reception hall, nice large dining room with a good menu, not too over prices.  Sometimes difficult to find our rooms through long corridors twisting every 10 rooms or so, but we soon learned to follow some of the Warli large paintings, and the ping pong table.  The staff was most accommodating, even chamber men speaking good English intoned greetings  (where did they learn and practice that?).  The one bad time, irritating was Sunday morning very early, someone’s kid running around the hall way yelling, laughter and waking all of us. The other irritant, new Internet until the very last minutes before we left.

I had taken a bicycle rickshaw in the early morning to try to connect to the Internet at Shiva’s near the temples, across from the lake, but got there too late to do anything, plus he had no wifi or way to connect my computer. So, I waited for the bus to pick me up on the way to the temples, but our guide Pravan arrived on his motor bike, so I jumped on his back seat and went to the parking bus.  Another type of transportation besides car, train, airplane, rickshaws.  At 4:45 pm I hired the same bicycle rickshaw driver to take me to Shiva’s but there were Divali barriers and activities, so I stopped, before getting to Shivas, at the advertised WiFi, and connected on the café’s second story roof overlooking the lake and I did my Internet while drinking a coke. Was able to speak to Deej briefly at the end of my hour there as she had just gotten up Sat morning in Charlottesville.  Then quickly back to the Hotel on the rickshaw, on a ride much easier (for the driver coasting) downhill and through the darkening sky, cooling air, and quieting Divali crowds. 

The bus took us about 5 blocks from the Sound and Light show, which was to start at 6:30 pm – and we walked in waiting a few minutes for our on chairs – the show of voices, sounds, music boomed from 4 or 5 locations as spotlights showed freezes or the Khajuraho temples – the narration about the origin of the Candela dynasty, their architects speaking, the British discovery of it after 7 or so centuries, etc.

Back through the gate at 7:30 pm, and joining Warren outside.  Robert wasn’t feeling well so stayed back in the Hotel and we all decided on the bus to limit our time with Warren and his Indian family if possible.   We apologized for Robert’s absence as wall as asking that the visit to the house be kept short.  He agreed and we walked allies for several blocks to his friends family’s house.  We talked to other family members and passed around the youngest to hold him for a few minutes.  The daughter prepared glasses of water for us, but Warren said we should not drink it  - rather prepare tea.  More talking with the family, how old kids, how long been in Khajuraho, education system, daughter wanting to get married? Etc.  The tea came and was fine. The youngest baby was passed around with glee. We were able to go into all the rooms of the first floor.  And see some into the life of an urban family.  We walked back to the bus and bade farewell to Warren and Sapna.  Everyone felt the visit went well – Pravan said – bus will pick you up at 9.  I told Robert and he said fine.

We had supper and went off to bed.

Sunday was a travel day from Khajuraho to Orcha and Orcha sightseeing. We grabbed the bus after breakfast around 9 and went the 90 or so miles mostly on pretty good roads – some four lane, most wide tar roads, with only one place narrow one lane when each direction of traffic had to negotiated who would get off the road more than the next – generally the heavily loaded trucks ruled, and tuk-tuks and motor bikes had to find their way.  The area had low scrub and lots of fields, mostly looking barren without crops yet, though recently plowed.  It was a sort of West Texas area with lots of cows, buffalo, goat herds, and even some lambs – an amazing large number of pasture animals for the area. 

Halfway we stopped at a Hotel in the middle of nowhere – we sat and had chai, after some of the group bought different Indian wares.  Off again for the second half of the journey, with a 20 minute stop at the Orcha railway crossing as a passenger train went through.  Then the chaos and slow traffic as cars, buses, tuk-tuks, etc confronted each other filling up all the lanes going in both directions, butting heads. Went through the town and on to the very modern Orcha Resort, with a flutist playing for us and a black uniformed Rajasthan security guard saluting all of us as we entered.

The rooms were back through a winding corridor. Robert and my room was 124, and located after making 12 right, left, right, left turns.  We freshened up a bit, and then lunch at 2, off on the bus to the Palaces and Forts of Orcha around 3:15 pm.  Got of the parked bus and walked through the town and across the street.  Our guide, David Williams, paid for our entrances, while I paid Rs 50 for two still cameras.  Up to the Jahangir Mahal, the largest and highest overlooking Orcha and surrounding wall and out buildings.  Guide David gave the usual stories and history, as well as describing how this architecture was Indo-Muslim, with plants and birds (Hindu) and geometric designs.  Must about the Mughals coming in, and eventually moving the Bundela capital even further south away from Mughal armies. Gates, blue tiles, domed rooms, multi-stories. Explaining the Diwan-I Khas (vip audience) and the Diwan-I Am (common people’s audience) and showing where they were and where the ladies sat.  Then the frescos on the ceilings in the Mahal down below, depicting scenes for the Hindu epics. Finally the spikes in the tall door of the fort’s entrance – put there against elephants butting their heads to break down the door. Also a purposeful sharp turn into the gate, preventing a runway for charging elephants. 

Took photos of a mendicant on the bridge and gave him Rs 10.  Others looked at brass items as I bought water and cokes.  On to the shops for 20 minutes, Anne finding her perfect 4 pairs of shoes at competing shoe shops, each for around Rs. 500, compared to the Khajuraho pair for Rs. 1100. Robert bought some beautiful elephant hangings.  I tried to bargain for a beautiful turquoise hanging from 750 to 350, but with no success, and then went in to find a plain shoulder bag, but none to be had.  So finally settled on a bright orange one, selling for Rs 425, I asked 250, and got it for Rs 325.  And put it on Facebook that night and Deej wrote back almost immediately – get one just like it for me – which, of course, I was unable to do. Then the ride back.

We rested and got ready for our 8 pm supper or did Internet stuff with the lobby’s wifi.  But there was music 

 at the pool, so rushed out and Kathy was already there, joined soon by Alice and Claudia.  A young (13/14 year old) girl sang coarsely and loudly in provocative way, as 3 male musicians played behind her – one with a cymbals clapper, one with drums, and the other with a harmonium.  The sang out to her and she often repeated their verses while dancing back and forth across the stage, or gyrating, or spinning and spinning.  Into their third song, she came down the steps and tried to invite all of us up there, and the women pushed me up and I grabbed Kathy to join me, went on stage and did some sort of line dancing with the girl – while Claudia and Alice laughed and giggled at us, meanwhile clicking their cameras away.  A nice Bundela dance.  The musicians bowed and thanked us as we went off to supper.  With no audience, we heard no more music.

Super and getting ready for bed and off to bed.  

What a day – the drive through the north Madhya Pradesh rural country side, the Bundela palaces, shopping and dancing.

From the cold Mussoorie mountain resort to hot erotic Khajuraho

4 and 5 November 2010 Thursday and Friday

These two days were mainly traveling days, from Mussoorie to Dehra Dun by bus, to Delhi by overnight sleeper train, and flying to Khajuraho via Varanasi. So, most people had their first train experience, and that too an overnight sleeper, and the first experience flying in India.

Robert got up early and got tea and two fried eggs quickly around 7:20 am, and off walking for working with Woodstock students all day until the end of school at 2:30 pm. I joined the group around 7:40 am and ordered my usual omelet and chapatis, while most ordered their usual omelet and tea or coffee – some insisting and get black coffee.  The concept of a ‘cup’ of tea or coffee is perhaps different in the States and India.  In India, they bring you only one cup at a time, though very rarely you can convince the cooks or waiters to bring a pot (three cups) of tea or coffee.  And it seems like forever for our orders to come – and the whoosh, they come all together or not.  Like the black coffee, you sometimes have to order that twice or thrice – at least at the Himalayan Castle.

Then a respite until 10, when most of the shops start opening, so I worked on photos and blog stuff.  Going down at 10, most of us trotted off, after I explained to some where the Four Season restaurant was, where we would meet at 12:30 pm for lunch. I got Alice and Gail positioned at the bottom of the hill to see the Kashmir Emporium, after Gail checked and found out that the Bengali sweet shop had no jalebis.  Then off Anne, Abe, and I were to find maps at the Tourist office – which we walked to at a much faster pace than with Alice and Gail.  Abe bought one map; I got another, both of us got Garhwal maps, and a free Mussoorie pamphlet with a nice map in the back.  Then I asked the lady, after the required signing of the register, for 8 more maps – she said no, not that many, but then brought 3 more and eventually 3 more, for a total of 7, so someone is going to have to do without.

Since the trolley, or lift to the top of Camel’s Back, was right next to the Tourist office, we decided to pay the Rs. 50 each to go up and back to the top.  Unlike last year when Deej and I were scrunched in with many other people in the car – we were by ourselves, as we slowly went up, noticing interesting signs of hotels, of monkeys, and other things.  At the top, we went around and saw the snows which were not very visible through the haze, but good enough to see most.  Photos, photos, photos of the snows again. We strolled around the top, fending off hawkers, such as those who wanted us to dress up in traditional Indian dress for photos. Very few people were up there – again compared to the shoving crowds of last year.  Back down and off to going back to the middle of Mussoorie.  Abe and Anne looked into some ‘antique’ shops, and the bought Kashmiri bags at one street vendor.  Further along two more ‘antique’ shops, and I bought a small brass Ganesh for Rs. 80.  Some more shopping since it was only 11:30 am – at the Bata store – nope no slip on shoes Anne had her heart set on getting, and then across the street to Kashmir Emporium.  We had passed Gail and Alice at the top of the hill as Gail was buying a net like sweater.  Anne and Abe looked at many elephant tea covers, deciding one one  – and then some bobbles.  I asked about Kashmir knives but they only had sets of 3. 

Down to the Four Seasons for lunch – Jeanie and Claudia were sitting at the top of the stairs – the 4 Seasons was closed for the Winter, so we went across the street to the Tavern, trying to keep an eye out of Kathy, but she never showed up.  The group loved the food and even a glass of wine – I was out of money so had to borrow, and also couldn’t repay a couple people their full change.At the end of the meal I opened up three custard apples or Sita Phuls, which I had just bought from my favorite Mussoorie corner fruit vendor, and we all delighted in the unique taste, spitting out the black seeds.

After lunch, I went up to pack and others went back to shopping or going around Mussoorie. 

Early in the morning, after Robert had left, the driver for our cars down to Dehra Dun, had come by around 9:30 am and suggested we leave at 5 instead of 3:30 pm which Robert had set up –  I told him fine, and I’d call him if we needed instead to leave at 3:30 pm. Robert returned around 3 and said 5 was fine. 

I ran off around 4 to jostle with the crowds around the old Clock Tower, intent on taking a photo of where the old Tower stood.  And eventually got a decent shot.

We were all ready at 5 with our suitcases, etc But one came.  Then the first car came around 5:20 with Raja, and others came in the next 20 minutes.  Diwali delays, you know. The trip down was mainly, unfortunately, in the dark.  We wanted to go to the new Buddhist stupa in Dehra Dun, but ended up in some Buddhist monastery with a huge temple in Rajpur.  I tried to answer questions, like why did Buddhism die out in India. Off we went for supper at, no not McDonalds, but the Hotel President next door.  Most people liked the offerings and food there, though that is where we started to order 6 items and share them.  Some people grumbled though.

Off to the Station around 9:30 pm, finding and sitting in the Waiting Room.  I finally went with Raja to find the train around 10:15 pm and found it, but no seating list slapped on the side of the Second Class Sleeper, A1 and A2.  Unfortunately our berths were not all in the same compartments or locations with each other, and even Jeanie was in a different boggie.  But we went to check on her and she seemed fine talking to some friendly guys.  Anne, Abe, and I had upper bunks close to each other, and I locked my suitcase under the seat on a cable in front of Anne’s. The guy in the bottom bunk was not friendly but chained his own suitcase under his lower bunk.  The train pulled out a few minutes early and we all tried to sleep – I got some fairly good sleep, so did Anne, but Abe was mad at my loud snoring, until he realized it was the lower bunk guy making all the noise.  He did not have a good night.

We were awaken at 4:45 am to hand over our blankets and stuff to the porter, as we’d be arriving soon.  Ha!  It wasn’t until 5:25 am we pulled into Delhi.  Jumped off with our luggage, meeting Rahul of Uday Tours waiting for us.  But where was Jeanie – nowhere to be found, Robert went through her boggie and looked all around.  Finally about 15 minutes later, she arrived pulling her luggage.  Rahul hired coolies to take our heavy luggage and we climbed the steps, went across the bridge, outside, and waited 15 minutes for our bus to come.

Off to the Florence Inn where everyone had spent their first night in India, but I hadn’t been there.  They boots polished. I also arranged for a few things to be left in my shoulder bag in storage at FI – mainly hot sweat pants and shirt, and some papers.

The drive to the airport through the haze was interesting – up over by passes or fly-overs to the India Indian airport (not International). 

Security checks in India are similar and not similar to the ones in the States – few of the security personnel know English week – lots of pointing and shuffling things in the bins going through, but we got through and off to the toilets to expel the lots of water we drank before giving up our water bottles at the check point. I search out to find an USB cable so I could work my external drive as one of its connectors has broken – no luck.

Finally we could go to our Gate 9 and jump on the bus for the long ride out to our Jet airplane.  I luckily got an F seat by the window.  But the haze was so bad, I hardly saw anything and the photos turned out pretty bad.  We did see a US big cargo plane on the runway and then taking off, in preparation for Omaha’ s arrival in few days.  We had Belgian and other European seat mates as we had a veg or non-veg lunch to Varanasi, leaving around 10:30 am and getting into Varanasi around 12:15 pm.  Jeanie started to try to get off with the others leaving, thinking it was Khajuraho.  More people replaced the Belgiums, this time Spanish people next to me.  We landed after a unidentified sandwich snack around 1:15 pm. 

Warren and his 12-year old girl, Sapna (dream) greeting us at the airport and garlanded us. Off to our hotel, the Ramada, outside Khajuraho by about 2 miles. What a nice place, modern and helpful BUT NO INTERNET!  We were all exhausted and took naps. We learned more of Warren, a Woodstockite (Class of 1951) who has taken up residence here, 6 months of the year in the past several years, and then in Seattle for the other half year. I went into the bazaar with Robert for a few minutes by cycle rickshaw, wandering around the bazaar for a ½ hour before returning to the Hotel.  I also quickly put on my swimming suit and ran down and slipped in with timed photo shot – it was cold as I swam from one end to the other in the shallow pool about 40 yards distant.

Off to Khajuraho, first to go with Warren to the active Khajuraho Shivite temple, to climb the steps (after taking off our shoes), join the Diwali crowd, to the top of the steps, to perambulate around the huge lingam, and crowds stood by chanting, accepting our tika mark from the priest and his Prasad, and then exiting.  Warren wanted us to take and eat the ‘sacred’ Prasad.  Off for fantastic performances of Indian dance – Gujarati, folk dances, classical India, Maharashtra, etc. and local tribal dances, plus a couple very nationalistic dances at a cultural center. We exited the theater, and Warren was absolutely furious with our guide, Pravan for not allowing our group to be influenced and captivated by local vendor boys.  Quite a fracas in the street about that. After that we were off for supper at a restaurant, where Warren gave us his ‘story’ – a mystery why he was attracted back by some force back to India.  

We had a supper and rode the bus home. I tried getting connected on the Internet. No way, the server was down.  Diwali, you know.   Come back and get it tomorrow morning.

Whew – the long car, train, air, car trip from Mussoorie to Khajuraho.

Woodstock School Day

3 November 2010 Wednesday

Woodstock School day.  Assembly at 8:30, tour of gym, walk to the top at Sisters bazaar, down the back side and Fairy Glen, lunch, then out to Flag Hill and climb it for dim views of the snows, back to Hanifl center for tea and talk about the environment, supper at Woodstock, and walk back to H Castle, buying a few things on the way. 

Drank our chai and some breakfast of omelets and chapatis at 7:30 am, and I suggested all of us Woodstockites (Gail, Alice, Robert, and me) take a car rather than walk, since it would take some time to walk and then to register at the school. If we walked at 8 we might not make it.  Left by car at 8:08, got there at 8:25, and ran up to Assembly in Parker Hall, as it was starting -  A 7-minute homily on not complaining with a  short scripture verse, then announcements and Merit awards, and admonition to stop spamming email (Happy Halloween, smell my feet)  or else would be blocked for a week. Photos and tour of the Arts, English, and Performance center. Then down to the Office, with Abe and Anne having made their way on their own to the school, and a little bit of Internet in the Alum lounge, also later for a few minutes after lunch.  There was some talk with staff and others about what were the results of the US election – no surprises as such.  We also learned Obama is visiting India on the 8^th Nov, while we are here!

Emu (Alumni Office assistant) gave us a tour up to the Studio 59, where Robert had finished his first class and had an hour free. And he joined us to go up and see the new gym, which Alice especially found interesting. From there we went down to the gate for Gail, Alice, and Robert to jump in a car to Sisters bazaar, while Abe, Anne, and I started our slow steady trek up, straight up the hill.  Past Redwood cottage, Victor Banerjee’s house, up the dirt path, sometimes steps.  Greeted Robert as he was coming down, as we were almost at the top.  Then to Prakash’s and chocolates, and hair conditioner. Gail and Alice showed up too.

We all walked east along the chakar to find the back side decent. Lo, and behold, there was Leon reading the paper, and he helped us find the right path after I had led them down a house path.  Near the bottom we veered off to Fairy Glen, though Alice waited behind.  Gail, Abe, and Anne liked Glen and the short hike to and from it.  Down through Jabbarkhet’s back houses to Terhi road.  Now the walk back to Woodstock for lunch at 12:30 pm.  We all 10 sat at a table together.  The students were all having their lunch on the other side of the Kashmir screens in the dining room.

Since there was no one it the office, Gail and Alice decided to walk down to College by themselves and see what they could see.  Anne L helped a couple people get on spare or un-used computer, and I used my laptop.   Until 1:30 pm when we went off to climb Flag Hill – Kathy, Claudia, Jeanie, Abe, Anne, and me.   We took our time and got to the bottom of Flag Hill around 2:15, I took them down two false paths, but Anne finally found the real path up, and we followed that, resting ever now and then.  They thought they were at the top with the first set of flags, but I pushed them on passed the flat camping area and up the ridge to the back side and the real top of Flag Hill – disappointment as the clouds over the snow peaks partly obscured their views.  But we took photos of each other and flags.  Now the way down on the real path, to Tehri road, and to the Hanifl Center where there was juice, peanut butter cookies, and curry puffs waiting for us around 3:45 pm.  Alice and Gail turned up at the same time we got there, and then Robert came around 4:05 pm. Our substitute environmentalist speaker (Kutty was in the States), Darab Nagarwala showed up by 4:15 and we all sat in a circle asking him questions and enjoying the discussion.  At one point Robert asked me to make sure the kitchen knew 10 more people were coming to Woodstock super, but I could not get the land or cell phone to call properly, so we asked Darab, and he did it quickly and then came back for 15 minutes more conversation. 

Left to walk for supper around 5:40, since Robert needed to get back for the 6 pm supper and the workshop he was giving that night.  Supper was rice with three types of curry and apple.  I met Dan L and he gave me my backpack with my computer in it which Anne had  nicely arranged so I would not have to carry it up and down Flag Hill. 

We tried to arrange a taxi for Alice and Gail who were quite tired from the climb down and up from College, but the taxi said first it’d be 10 minutes and then 25 minutes, so they decided to walk also. Our walk back was in separate groups with Kathy leading my group with a flashlight which included Jeanie and Claudia.  They didn’t like the climb up Tehri road to the Landour Hospital.  Then they got excited by an “antiques” shop in upper Mullingar, and Jeanie and Claudia bought some stuff after about 20 minutes of looking, and Abe and Anne popped in, looking, liking, and buying some old lovely cigar box label. The bazaar was very, very busy and crowded with the pre-Diwali wares and firecrackers, pushing some of their displays out into the street. Random firecrackers boomed at us from nowhere, some close, some distant crackles. Jeanie especially wanted some chocolates so we stopped at Harisingh’s shop.  Then further along I got a large bottle of beer (Fosters at Rs 80 = $w) as Jeanie checked out the red and white wine from Australia at about Rs 1200 (= $30) a pop.  Jeanie decided no.  Past the blank foundation of the clock tower for a last time, and up the wrong path for a moment to the Himalayan Castle.   And to our rooms which our purchases and our tired bodies. 

Robert returned round 8:20 pm having walked by with Llyn who had watched Robert at his workshop.  I was very tired and went right to sleep after drinking my beer – and slept all the way to 5 am! = 9 hours. Today was also the first day that I took Malarone, and will be taking it for the next 14 days, since I will enter malaria country in two days.

What a day, Woodstock, climb to the top, Fairy Glen, Woodstock lunch, Flag Hill, environmental talk at the Hanifl Center, Woodstock supper, and through the bazaar. 

From Rishikesh to Mussoorie with KHEL students

2 November 2010 Tuesday

From Rishikesh to Dehra Dun to Mussoorie. Now starts a new part of this India trip – going from one place to another, and spending only one or two nights in any place, days filled with traveling as well as sightseeing.

Not only photos, but two video clips at India 2010 #12 To Mussoorie

Today we left Rishikesh about 10 am, arrived in Dehradun around 11:30 am, visited a school mainly for children shunned because their parents were lepers, went to see the leper colony around 2 pm, had lunch at 2:30 pm, an hour later taking the bus up the hill to Mussoorie, arriving at around 5 pm, climbing the steep 7 or so blocks straight up to our Himalayan Castle Hotel.

The day started out abnormal around 6 am but no walk with Alice or anyone. Worked on modifying some photos of Sunday’s Ramana Garden and Ram Jula Arti ceremonies to be added later on Picasa. I heard Robert talking on the phone around 2 – it was a happy birthday to a niece ? back home. Took my usual shower and shave around 7 to go to normal breakfast at 7:30, sitting with 3 strangers at a table, I think they were Swedish. Parathas today with some vegetables mixed in and cilantro sauce, banana, and chai. Around 8 rushed back to pack – how am I going to add my jacket, 3 new Indian shirts or kurtas, 2 Indian pants, and a new pair of sandals to my already full suitcase. Somehow I did, putting some clothing in my knapsack, but it was tight. Pulled my suitcase up to the office by 9:30 planned departure as all others were there and Robert was finalizing paying the bill.

The bus was larger (24 passenger) than our previous large van (15 passenger?), but smaller than the normal larger busses (40?). They placed our luggage In the back and I got one of the font seats, though it was not good seeing out the front since the sideman or guide was obscuring the front view with his head, but I still enjoyed the 1.5 hour ride through the Swaliks, the town of Daiwala, past the Dehradun airport (where Vance will fly into on the 8^th of November), and into Ddn.

Our morning visit was to the KHEL school (Kindness, Health Education, and Laughter) of low or untouchable caste children – Robert had been here before and others he knew supported the school financially. Light and dark blue uniformed kids running around at recess as we arrived around 11:30 or so. After they ran off to their classes the director told us some about the school, and then we went and visited classroom – Kindergarten up to 5^th Class (elementary level/?). We were greeted by the students, walked into the class room, found out the subject and asked a couple questions. I asked one 10-year old boy his name – Amin, and then wrote my name Filip or Feeleep in Nagri for him to read. Last class was a Music one in a large auditorium room, and I read off some of the notes on the board from Nagri. Soon we were seated in front of the stage, some speeches, including remarks by Robert, then garlanded and tea and cookies were brought as we watched performances of boys and girls, traditional dance, local mountain dance, little kids singing Twinkle Twinkle, and an athletic demonstration of poses to a really, really loud booming drum. Then photos before we walked back through the lanes to the bus – most with their garlands still on, and greeting lots of uniformed girls coming from another school as classes were out for the day. They loved greeting us in English and trying out their hellos and giggling. It was a nice visit to the school.

Off to the leper colony, which Robert, again, had previously visited. Again a walk through the wide streets, after the bus parked about 3 blocks away from the colony. But, we found that the residents had gone off to in invited free lunch and were on there. Except for one older man, who said, no photos, no wandering around without the residents there. A disappointment.

Lunch at a modern looking vegetarian Ananadam restaurant – the food was finally much spicier and better than the Ashram, and included South Indian dosas, ras gullas, etc.

About 3:30 pm we headed up the hill to Mussoorie, the driver evidently worried about his return trip down in the dark. Kathy joined me in the double front seat, and I tried to answer her questions about India and the hillside as we climbed up and up – having to close the windows as it got quite cold. We noticed the very different trees. 

The bus dropped us off at the bus stand, about 3 blocks from Picture Palace. I warned folks of the 3 blocks, and then the 5 other blocks climb straight up to Himalayan Castle. Coolies tried to carry luggage for Rs 50 a piece, and about half did. Robert, Alice, and I started pulling our luggage up the steep hill. I gave up about a block up to a pestering coolie who I had gotten down to Rs 30. Alice gave up next another block up, but Robert persisted and carried his all the way. We then fanned out to our rooms on the second floor as our hotel manager greeted us (name Prithab Vaish?), saying if you had contacted me we would have had cars to bring you up from the bus stand. Robert and I settled into room 12. It was like the others – two huge rooms, each with a huge double bed with 2 quilts (but no top sheet), a bathroom in the back and a view along a narrow hall to the back side to see Dehra Dun, a TV, closets, etc. I found out our shower hot water facet didn’t work well – only a trickle – so we ended up having to fill a large bucket by the lower hot faucet and cup bathe ourselves. Well, always adjustments to living and traveling in India. 

We decided to eat supper at the hotel and ordered right away, various Indian dishes from their menu, including meat dishes like tandoori chicken, curry chicken, and then several naan breads and rices, etc. Surprisingly the opened up the dining room (across from the office) which we had never used on our previous stay. And then everyone retired early. But not before the manager had gotten small heaters for each of our rooms. I did not use it the first night but ran it all night long the second night, though it does not seem to have made much difference in the huge, high ceiling room.

Lost my combination lock today, I had not closed the lock on my suitcase and it likely fell off in the back bus luggage compartment. I didn’t check about it as we got the luggage out of the bus, but it is likely sitting there at the bottom of the compartment. Too back and unlikely to find a replacement in India.

Lunch at an orphanage and Arti religious ceremonies as the sun set on the Ganga

31 October 2010 Sunday (and 1 November 2010 at the very end mentioned with photos link)

Today consisted mainly of a trip to two events – lunch at the orphanage / school of Ramana Garden and then an evening’s religious ceremony and ritual on the banks of the Ganga.

More photos at India 2010 #10 Garden and Ganga Arti

But first our usual one-hour morning walk – this time joined by both Abe and Anne, as well as Kathy and Gail. We went left (south) again toward the Virbhadra temple, not making a good choice of narrow lanes to follow as some were dead ends. We thought we’d go to the Ganges and head down river if we could.  We first reached to archeological digs of the Virbadhra temple and stood around looking at it, discovering indeed there was a black lingam, though obviously of recent insertion.  Abe read the English far inside which said there were three stages or brick and structure – 1^st century AD, 4^th century AD and 8^th century AD.   

Meanwhile a woman passed by on her way home and said this was a good site to look at.  We then asked her about the singing. All night long there had been pretty loud singing from loud speakers near the Ashram, which kept some people irritatingly awake. She said – oh, yes, that happens every Saturday night – in praise of Bhagavata Mata.  By then, the keeper of the archeological site had arrived, unlocked the gate, and set out some chairs for us.  Which we didn’t use.  He told us in his rustic English – “no photos” – of course we had already taken lots through the close iron bars of the fence before he came. We went on down to the river – it did not have a path down river, so we could not go in that direction.  It was 7:35 by then and time for me to turn back, but the others, except Gail, went on to the barrage again.  Gail and I winded our way back noticing a well-kept for cow at one place – a two large bowls of grain food for her, and a nice burlap cover on her back.

Showered and shaved and off to a very austere breakfast of dal, chai, and puris (not chapattis).

Our 9:30 am class was again taught by Jelle at the Knowledge Center on “Science of Breath”  I though t it was very good – details about the lungs, nostrils, and lots of theories about yoga – Shankara and advaitiya philosophies.  Jeanie kept being skeptical – I asked if Jelle has found his teacher or guru (yes), what chakra he had obtained (the lowest of 6), and if he was conscious of his previous births (I will not discuss that).  Well, an interesting and stimulating talk and discussion.  Anne asking Jelle what he did for fun – in this world and in the inner world?

Off to get on the bus (changing out of my Indian white kurta and payjamas and into my American clothes) and a ride through downtown Rishikesh and the forest again up to Laxman suburb of Dehra Dun, and a walk into back allies in that hilly town to the Ramana Garden café, situated at the school there. An American woman, now known as Prabhavati, started this orphanage and school many years ago after a boy came up to her and she said she’d give him food if he’d go to school.  One of Robert’s Maryville students, who had been on one of his India trips, was working at the school also, Malinda.  We all settled into the soft floor seats behind tables in the café as Malinda told us her story, then we had lunch followed by Prabhavati’s story, and the auctioning off of 4 scarfs and the buying of some jewelry.  A delicious lunch of a creamy carrot soup, followed by either an Italian vegetable ravioli dish, or Himalayan red rice, both with a ‘safe’ salad – and a piece of chocolate cake.  She’s visiting Yogaville in May 2011, so I gave her my card.

Back to the bus (with a bathroom break) and up to a Western grocery store for chocolates and shampoos around 2 or 3 pm. 

And driving back toward Rishikesh, being dropped off at Ram Jula to go to the 4:30 to 6:30 pm Arti ceremonies. Down the 91 steps to cross over a foot (only) bridge to the other side (actually there was motorbike, bicycle, and other traffic besides pedestrians).  Then downstream on a market road, toward the Beatles ashram (but never got there), to the Ram Jula ghat, for an evening of ceremonies, singing, chanting, fire, and worship, sitting on the ghat’s steps, as sun set.  There were young boys dressed in priestly garb, tourists, western and Indian, as well as local people, families, and pilgrims.  All quite enchanting. 

sacred feet in the Ganga

The walk back to the bridge around 6:45 pm was through the dark market street, along the dark bridge, and up the dark 91 steps.  Going through the market, we were continually harassed by young (12 year old) kids with their ‘art’ work, and other merchants calling out to us to stop by.  Kathy kept repeating again and again – we’ll be back tomorrow, tomorrow! Robert called the driver of the bus from the foot of the steps. Saying we’d see him in 10 minutes.  We waited on the side of the road at the top of the steps, maybe for 15 minutes, but the bus came and we headed back.

Since we arrived at supper late, around 7:15 pm, we had to be patient and wait for the second sitting which came in about 20 minutes.  An uninspiring supper of chapatis, rise, dal, subzi (vegetables), hot milk (with two tablespoons sugar for me), and an apple. Abe, Anne, and Kathy were in cahoots, planning for tomorrow’s 5 hour trek form the Ramana Garden area up a mountain and down tomorrow early.

At 8 pm Vishnu gave an hour talk on “Emotional Purification” which started after 10 minutes of guided meditation.  Vishnu listed and described all the bad things one had to purify against, most as a result of uncontrolled desire.  My desire was to stay awake Sunday night, in a way that I had not the night before.  And I succeeded.  Gail also said she had to struggle staying awake.  Abe, Anne, Jennie, and Llyn were absent from that lecture.

Back to room #14 to write this and yesterday’s blog.  Another very different and full day – a great meal at an orphanage / school, and the wonderful Arti or ceremonies on the bank of the Ganga at sunset.

One would hardly suspect that today was Halloween - too much inner life here for that outer fun and frolicing.

1 November 2010. Monday. A day of Meditation, laundry, Indian food, dress, and music.

See photos and a music video clip at India 2010 #11 Meditation

Swami Rama's hospital and rural development

30 October 2010 Saturday

This was another day that turned out different than I expected.  It was mainly a trip to the hospital which Swami Rama had founded, but it was not just a trip to a hospital, but sort of a pilgrimage to another place Swami Rama was involved with during his life, and a ‘worship’ of him.

See photo album India 2010 #9 Hospital and Rural Development

The day started out as usual – a walk from 7 to 8.  Abe joined Alice, Llyn, and me, and we went right (north?) out of the gate, toward the barrage or bridge, instead of left (south?) as we had done the first day.  We walked up the main road, again seeing people rising, kids going to school, milkmen with huge metal containers or white plastic ones, cows and dogs wondering about or sleeping, some tea shops opened, a carders shop getting ready, crows squawking about, hovels and pakka or real houses.  Finally we found a side road to the right (east?) which went through to the Ganga river.  Got to his banks and could see the barrage not too far further upstream.  We walked along the wide road to the barrage, and I started taking photos of the bridge and the traffic, until a guard pointe out “Photo keechna mana hai” sign – “Pulling or taking photos is forbidden”  Most substantial infrastructure like this barrage have similar signs and prohibitions.

I didn’t cross the bridge with the others since it was already 7:35 and  I wanted to get back for a shower and shave before 8:30 breakfast.  Same sights, sounds, and smells on the main road back as I returned.

Breakfast was normal with similar food as the day before – dal, cooked vegetables, chapatis, and cha, I rushed back to my room to collect my clothes to be washed – stuff them in a plastic bag with my #14 room number on it and a list of my cloths.  Then went up to the Office and gave them the bag, as well as did some work and made connections on the Internet – I asked other selectors to order some history books as well as a religious studies requested book.  In the evening when I again had an Internet connection – Deej mentioned that Obama had paid a surprise visit Friday night to Charlottesville, though Deej had not gone to see the President, and that she was headed to Richmond with a friend for shopping Saturday morning.

With the bus leaving at 10, I rushed back with my laptop and left it there and then rushed back to get on a small 14 person bus, which was to take us around, through Rishikesh, up through a wooded area, and to a medical hospital campus, whose address is Dehra Dun, even though it is about 20 miles from the core of that city.   We arrived at the Arya Veda clinic around 10:45 and sat at a long table, headed by an Arya Veda woman doctor who explained the purpose, patients, and the ailments that were treated at the clinic.  Jeanie had some skepticism about it as usual.  We saw the treatment rooms where there were soft mattress massage tables and a box for herbal steam treatment – as well as patient recovery rooms.  They assured us that serious aliments were treated by Western medical procedures in the hospital.  We saw, but did not go into, the training hospital.  Rather we went to the Rural Development Institute, where a young woman with very good English told us about their programs in the hill areas with health, water, and craft programs in Uttarkhand state.

Next we went for lunch, which was unique in that it was self-serving, buffet style – all our meals are served to us at the Ashram.  I avoided the nice cucumber salad and onions, and the watery raita, but some others loved the raita.  Inconsistently, I took and ate some fresh cayennes.  Otherwise it was the usual vegetarian meal.

Finally we visited the book store and gift shop and some of the women bought a few clothes, and Gail bought the little comic book Ruskin Bond had written.  Right next door was  a meditation center and photo gallery – with walls of 7 rooms devoted to photos of Swami Rama, playing tennis, traveling abroad, etc.  It cracked up our young couple, while Joanne sat in devout meditation.   Then off to a trip home around 3 pm.

Free time with Internet and other things until supper at 7 pm.

The “Yoga for Daily Life” session followed at 8 pm.  A young Indian with pretty good English, Vishnu, taught the class, and I took notes, but embarrassingly drifted off to sleep about 8:35 pm for about 5 minutes – Kathy kicked me awake and I was able to pretend to list the rest of the lecture. We learned about the 5 parts of Yama (non-violence, etc celibacy).  But Vishnu got confusingly tongue tied trying to explain how Krishna’s killing 1 million people was not a sin for him, a topic and other ideas he could have easily avoided and made the class still quite productive. 

Coming back to my room, I quickly got to bed and continued my sleep I had started in the class.  So, another full and different day – not really connected with the Ashram, but infused with the abiding presence of Swami Rama even off at the hospital.